Introduction
In our era of ever-changing skincare trends and social media, we are constantly surrounded by messages about what products are best for our skin. Questions about how to reduce fine lines, prevent wrinkles, and maintain luminosity linger, leading many people to adopt extended routines in hopes of achieving better skin. But the real question remains: is doing more for your skin actually worth it?
The truth is, our skin evolves in cycles and so do its needs. There are four main phases of our skin’s biological renewal process; proliferation, migration, differentiation, and desquamation. These phases map the skin’s regenerative process from new cell formation to shedding. Following a skincare routine tailored to the skin’s natural cycle can provide the same benefits as using a routine with a multitude of products.
Skincare Routines That Do Too Much
Modern skincare culture often encourages layered activities and the use of trending products. With a new product always circulating, people are constantly editing their routine. However, mixing multiple products can be harsh for the skin and lead to the issues people were originally trying to avoid.
Product overuse can lead to more damage than we realize, ranging from slight irritation to interferences with our skin’s natural microbiome. Part of our skin health can be attributed to the range of microorganisms our skin houses. Damaging these organisms can trigger dysbiosis, an organism imbalance, with acne and eczema being common side effects presenting as sensitivity and redness.
Other issues that can arise include skin irritation and a disrupted skin barrier, which is why tailoring a routine to the skin’s biological process brings skincare back to the basics and prioritizes the skin’s actual needs.
Why Dermatologists Push Retinoids
While retinoids have been around for years, there has been a recent increase in their prevalence in over-the-counter products. Retinoids are derived from vitamin A, a known source of nourishment for the skin. Our skin’s natural collagen production declines as we age, leading to a loss in firmness and glow and over time, fine lines and wrinkles.
Though a prescription is needed for stronger retinoids such as tretinoin, many dermatologists are happy to oblige, as Stanford dermatologist Zakia Rahman explains that “retinoids encourage skin cells to divide more rapidly, building up the protective top layer of skin.” In addition to prescriptions, there are also various retinoids available over the counter.
Retinoids are often used for issues such as acne, fine lines, hyperpigmentation, and texture, making them a highly encouraged product by dermatologists. The potency and science-backed benefits of retinoids continue to perpetuate them as one of the most highly effective products in maintaining a solid skin texture and tone.
The Skin Renewal Cycle
While retinoid use is encouraged, it’s important to know how and when to use it. There are four main phases of our skin’s biological cycle; proliferation, migration, differentiation, and desquamation. Each phase plays a unique role in how the skin responds to products and determines how the skin looks and feels.
In the skin’s phase of proliferation, new keratinocytes originate in the basal layer. This is the skin’s growth phase where it takes the time to repair and regenerate.
In migration, the newly generated cells move from the deep layers of the skin to the epidermis. The skin prepares and organizes its cell structure so the cells can support barrier function.
In the differentiation phase, the keratinocytes evolve into protective cells called corneocytes that form the skin’s outer layer (stratum corneum), helping to prevent moisture loss.
Finally, in desquamation, the skin sheds old cells in order for new ones to be regenerated. This is where the skin can become the most rough and dry.
What Happens When Retinoids Are Used Too Often
When it comes to retinoid use, less is more. Overuse of a retinoid can lead to uncomfortable side effects with some online skincare communities reporting that retinoids “completely destroyed [their] skin barrier” and “led to perioral dermatitis”.
Frequent use of retinoids can cause gaps in the proteins and lipids that make up the skin’s barrier. According to Dr. Jennifer Holman, a board-certified dermatologist, this damage can contribute to “chronic skin conditions or struggle[s] with skin health issues like dry skin, frequent infections, or generally poor wound healing.” (US Dermatology Partners).
What Skin Actually Needs at Different Stages
Skin renewal is a constant process, and instead of overloading your skin with unnecessary products, it is best to meet your skin where it’s at.
As the skin begins to shed its old cells, hydration is vital for maintaining smoothness and a glowy complexion. The flaky and tight sensation that develops as the skin enters desquamation, is often mistaken for a need to exfoliate when it may actually signal dehydration or barrier disruption. Exfoliation and retinoids are important steps in caring for your skin, but not all at once. Dermatologists explain that it is best to cycle through products instead of mixing them together.
The trending regimen of “skin-cycling” explains how to do just that, and notes that using minimal products on separate nights can maximize the benefits.
Where Skin Cycling Fits In
Skin cycling is one dermatologist-led approach designed to support the skin’s natural renewal process without product overuse. The method follows a four-night rotation: exfoliation, retinoid use, two nights of recovery, and then repeat.
Rather than attempting to address every skin concern at once, skin cycling spaces out active ingredients and prioritizes recovery. Ohio State University Dermatologist, Susan Massick, explains that this approach “allows each step to be effective” while reducing the risk of irritation caused by overuse.
With exfoliants, gentler formulas lessen irritation in individuals with sensitive skin. However, for those who do opt for a physical exfoliant, skin cycling spreads the product use over the span of a few days, giving the skin time to adjust to harsher products.
For the second night of skin cycling, retinoids are necessary. Retinoids are responsible for aiding cell turnover and making the skin look smoother and tighter. Since retinoids can be intense on the skin, it can be helpful to start out with a gentler variation. A squalene based retinoid, which provides moisture and protection, or a retinoid capsule, is calmer on the skin, as the formula is delivered over time.
Medical literature consistently supports that retinoids should be used sparingly rather than nightly. Oftentimes, two to three nights a week is adequate for topical use. This frequency gives the skin enough time to adjust to the intensive formulas of retinoids without compromising the skin barrier and causing irritation. For this reason, the last two nights of skin cycling are essential for restoring hydration, as the skin undergoes lipid reorganization during desquamation. Lipid reorganization is an “important contributor to the skin barrier function,” (National Library of Medicine) further emphasizing the importance of rehydrating the skin.
For nights three and four, moisturizers provide the necessary hydration. Key ingredients to look for in moisturizers are hyaluronic acid and squalene as they help combat dryness.
The Takeaway
Too much experimentation and overwhelming your skin with products can cause more harm than good. Sometimes, the healthiest skin can come from staying true to its cycle, and giving your skin the support it needs along the way.